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Feedback, commentary, opinions
PSA update your stuff
The past couple of weeks there have been patches and updates to the latest versions of macOs and iOS
Please update soon if you haven’t yet.
The updates contain critical security patches for 0-day exploits found in WebKit that impact in both macOS and iOS
Make sure your on at least iOS 14.5.1 and macOS 11.3.1
Remove old podcasts in “bulk”
Will decided to try Downcast after listening to the last Maccast
Likely it enough to switch, but wanted to delete the downloaded episodes from the new Apple Podcast app to save storage space in his device
Oddly, you seem to only be able to do it one at a time from the “Downloads” tab.
There isn’t a way to do it in the Podcast app, but you can make it easier from settings
Go to Settings > General > iPhone Storage
Find and tap on Podcasts
Then you can tap the red “remove” icon to delete the data by podcast.
FYI, if you use the Podcast app be aware that the new version will enable downloading of episodes on all “followed” shows by default.
Disable it by going to Settings on your iPhone or iPad.
Scroll down and tap on Podcasts.
Scroll down a bit and tap the toggle for Enable When Following to OFF (gray).
You’ll also need to go to each of your previously subscribed shows and tap ‘edit’ and then ‘settings’ to re-set how you want to receive, download, and order the shows.
Migrating to a smaller Mac
Like a lot of us Keith was inspired and excited by Apple’s new 24-inch M1 iMacs
He’s planning to buy one to replace his 2017 1 TB Fusion Intel iMac, but has some questions
Plans to “start from scratch” rather than restore from his Time Machine backup
Mainly worried about apps and getting the “native” versions when available.
You might still want to use migration assistant, but be selective about what you migrate
Apps: Select the Applications checkbox.
Other Files & Folders: Documents and files from apps
System & Network: Computer settings
So skip the apps and install those from scratch
Have all your licenses and serial numbers handy, for the apps that need them. Or redownload from the App Store.
But you might still want to migrate the “Other Files & Folders”
Storage is the big issue. Moving from 1TB Fusion drive to a measly 256GB or 512GB might be tough. How to do it?
Time for some “house cleaning” and archiving.
About this Mac > Storage > Manage… to find large files
Use a tool like Clean My Mac or Daisy Disk
Move large libraries, like Photo Library or Media Library to an external drive
Use “Optimize” options to have items stored in iCloud rather than locally
Photos Photos > Preferences > iCloud
Have a full back-up first
macOS via the iCloud preference pane. Enable “Optimize Mac Storage”
And of course the RAM question
8 GB or 16 GB of unified RAM?
My same “old” advice always applies. Buy as MUCH as you can afford at the time.
16GB will allow more longevity and higher resale value in the future
That said… most people are reporting getting along just fine with 8GB thanks to how Apple has engineered the memory architecture
I think it’s important to remember that ALL the M1 Macs are “consumer” machines. Yes, they are “besting” some of the current pro systems in benchmarks, but they are priced and positioned as consumer models for a reason.
If you are a Pro or Prosumer you should consider waiting for the Pro versions of Apple Silicon
Using older displays
I was asked about connecting an old 17-inch LED Cinema Display
It has a Mini DisplayPort connector and the Thunderbolt/USB-4 port
You can get display adapters for a display that uses DisplayPort, Mini DisplayPort, HDMI, or VGA.
Key is making sure you find one to match the specs and features you want and need.
With the last iOS / watchOS updates Apple added a feature that allows you to unlock your iPhone (with FaceID) while wearing a mask if you are wearing an Apple Watch (Series 3 or later) [details](https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT212208)
Your iPhone and Apple Watch need to have Wi-Fi and Bluetooth turned on.
If you disable either on the iPhone for any reason the feature won’t work
You don’t need to be connected to a wifi network
Apple Watch needs to require a passcode and wrist detection must be turned on.
You need to enable the feature
1. Open the Settings app on your iPhone.
2. Tap Face ID & Passcode, then type your passcode.
3. Scroll down to Unlock with Apple Watch, then turn on the feature next to your watch's name.
I find it a bit annoying, but EVERYTIME it unlocks your watch gives haptic feedback and shows an alert.
There’s a button on the watch to “relock” the iPhone
End of Apple’s Keyboard Service Program
Dan wrote to express some concerns and frustration over his MacBook Pro and the butterfly keyboard which has plagued so many MacBook owners
Apple introduced the design in 2015 on the 12-inch MacBook and was used on various models of MacBook and MacBook Pro until 2019
An extended program that covers 16 different models from keyboard issue for 4 year from the date of original purchase.
That’s good, but what happens after those 4 years?
Well, as Dan and many others are finding out. After that you are on the hook for Apple’s bad design choices.
Dan had two keyboard replacements under the program, but now the keyboards gone bad again, but he’s past the 4 years.
This will slowly happen to many more owners of these machines.
I think 4 years is fairly generous, but at the same time many of us will use Macs for much longer. My 2015 15-inch MacBook Pro is still going strong.
In this case it’s been fairly well established that Apple should have probably dumped the design a LOT sooner. They tried the “membrane” patch and wile that seemed to have helped later models a little. The older models still suffer.
It’s also tough timing as I think a number of “Pro” Mac users are in a waiting game for the new Pro Apple Silicon machines.
So I ask you… should Apple be doing more? Should they cover these systems longer and if so for how long?
I think maybe until the machine is replaced by the original owner.
Apple TV color calibration
Play comment from Dean
I played around with the feature on my Apple TV HD
I had some trouble with the calibration “disconnecting” and had to make a few attempts
I think I tended to hold it too close. I also have shaky hands, so that doesn’t help
At first it kept reporting that my color didn’t need calibration
I use the “movie” mode on my TV and apparently Apple’s tool thinks that is accurate enough
Switching to “standard” mode which is much cooler let me use and test the tool
I’m getting a new Apple TV 4K, so I’ll see how and if the experience is different with that model.
Apps not appearing to update
Kevin noticed that several of the Apps on his device were not showing up in the app updates in the App Store even though new versions were available
Turns out it was because the apps were “offloaded” from his device.
If you look at the app icon in from your home screen and see a cloud icon with an downward arrow that means the App is no longer on your device. You can tap it and it will download from the app store and open
I don’t remember when, but a while back Apple added the ability to “offload” apps to save storage space on your device.
This lets you remove the app, but not the apps files or data.
You can offload apps manually or automatically.
Kevin, in your case I’m guessing you have the “automatic” method enabled.
To offload manually:
Go to Settings > General > [Device] Storage
Tap on the app name
Tap “Offload App”
To have it happen automatically:
This is for “unused” apps
Go to Settings > App Store
Turn on the “Offload Unused Apps” option
Quick Tip: Find an AirTag’s Serial Number
This came from Bob
Open the Find My App and tap Items
Tap on the AirTag
Tap on the battery icon
This toggle to display the serial number and the firmware version on the AirTag
There is also a hidden “debug” mode
DO NOT change any of the settings if you don’t want to mess up your Airtag
Open the Find My App
Go to the Items tab and Tap on the Airtag
Tap the ‘Find’ button to enable find mode
Tap the name of the Airtag 4 times
You get an overlay that shows active data and sliders to make adjustments